South Shore Itineraries
Want to read this as a book? Coming to Nova Scotia
How exciting! You’re planning a trip to Nova Scotia. But, why?
Is your life hectic, do you run from pillar to post, is your job demanding, do you need a vacation? If you answered “yes” to any or all of these questions, then Nova Scotia is the perfect place to unwind and enjoy Canada’s Maritime hospitality.
Unfortunately, we find that many visitors haven’t figured out how to unwind, so they literally run the roads between Yarmouth and Lunenburg and Annapolis Royal and Baddeck and the Cabot Trail and, whew, suddenly they’re back home again. Was that a vacation? We don’t think so. Remember that movie, If it’s Tuesday it must be Belgium? That’s how too many of our visitors see Nova Scotia, and quite frankly, we’d like to slow you down a bit. We don’t quite move on “island time,” but close.
Back to our original question—why are you coming to Nova Scotia? What do you want to do, see, experience? Well, put your feet up, take a journey back in time with us, and let’s see if we can help you really enjoy your vacation. We’ve taken the towns around us and attempted to show you what a wealth of experiences you can have if you are using Lunenburg as your hub. We realize this is a long document, but we have put many ideas is BOLD type so you can scroll through until you find something that interests you.
As transplanted Americans (now with permanent residency status), Nova Scotia is still a magical place—even after being here for over four years. Since you’re on our website, you must be interested in Lunenburg, so we’ll start there.
Here’s a very short history lesson. Lunenburg was a summer place for the aboriginal people who came to the shore for its abundant sea life. Then the French arrived, but they actually got along quite well with the Indians, even sharing their survival skills with each other. In the mid-1700s, the Acadian expulsion occurred, and the British removed over 10,000 French Catholics from the entire Atlantic Provinces, many settling in Louisiana and becoming Cajuns; others sent to far-flung areas in the United States and Europe. The British replaced this population with German Protestants, and because the German population sort of “stayed put” in this area, there are still a great many descendents in Nova Scotia. Over the last 400 years people from many countries have chosen to relocate here, and Lunenburg’s genealogy association (located on the second floor of the Fisheries Museum) can be a wealth of information for anyone looking for ancestors who came from this area! www.rootsweb.com/~nslssgs Lunenburg has approximately 2500 residents.
Enough history. Now to the exciting parts.
Lunenburg
Lunenburg has been a fishing and shipbuilding town for hundreds of years, so our waterfront is what’s known as a “working” waterfront area. Instead of a stroll along a boardwalk (as in Quebec City), a visitor will actually be able to walk on wharves at which sailing vessels have docked since almost forever.
In 1995 Lunenburg was awarded the prestigious designation of UNESCO World Heritage Site. The United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization “seeks to encourage the identification, protection and preservation of cultural and natural heritage around the world considered to be of outstanding value to humanity, and Lunenburg is the best surviving example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America.” http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/741
Interested in museums? Our Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic is located on the waterfront and part of the museum was W.C. Smith’s old fish processing plant. (W.C. built our B&B as his home in 1905 when he became president of his company). The museum is not like other museums in that it is not stuffy and static. Its strong point is that it has real people doing all kinds of interpretive activities: building a dory, carving a ship model, hooking a rug, making a quilt, launching a dory (every day at 2 p.m.), singing a sea shanty song, etc. We have guests that go in and stay for six hours! Plus, there’s a lovely small aquarium that, of course, has native fish to view. Naturally, there’s an extensive gift shop with books, nautical items, and local memorabilia for the young and the young-at-heart. http://museum.gov.ns.ca/fma/
Bluenose II, an exact replica of the famous schooner that never lost an International race, may be in port when you’re here. It was built in Lunenburg, and it’s berthed at the Museum’s wharf, as is the Therese Conner, the Cape Sable, and the Cape North—all of which may be boarded. You may even arrange a two-hour sail on Bluenose II and pretend you’re either a fisherman in the winter months or a racer in the summer months of the early 1900s, for that’s exactly what she did. She worked hard in the winter and played in the summer! www.schoonerbluenose2.ca.
There are two other museums in town. The Knaut-Rhuland Home is a small but lovely house that was purchased by the Historical Society and is furnished with furniture from the period of the house, and it is staffed by costumed volunteers.
The Halifax and Southwestern Railway Museum is owned and operated by Dwayne Porter, a real railroad aficionado. He has built—in miniature and by hand—and continues to build the entire railway system that used to be found here on the South Shore. What a labor of love this is for him, and he is knowledgeable and enthusiastic about this hobby turned business. He also has had numerous items donated to him by retired members of the railroad community who now live all over Canada. His wife, Sheila, makes traditional Mi’kmaq porcupine jewelry and sells it at the museum.
Like organized walks? Eric Croft offers walking tours throughout the day—and ghost walks in the evening. He accurately explains the architecture and history of Lunenburg from its beginnings. www.lunenburgwalkingtours.com
Rather ride? Basil Oickle runs Trot N Time, a horse and buggy ride through town, again offering insights into the town’s architecture and legends. www.trotintime.ca
Like to stroll? What a walking town this is! There are four parallel streets—Bluenose Drive, Montegue, Pelham, and Lincoln—that make up the heart of the downtown area. We think we must have one of the largest “shopping” towns in Nova Scotia with an eclectic mix of crafts, hand woven clothing, home décor, Christmas items, clothing, candy, antiques, and art, just to name a few examples.
There is a pamphlet available at the visitors’ centre that lists several areas for fitness walking or jogging, one of which is the Back Harbour Trail, which used to be the old railway bed. Now it’s a lovely area to see birds and wildlife while exercising. The railway beds from Lunenburg to Mahone Bay and from Lunenburg to Bridgewater are also maintained trails. They connect with the Chester Trail also. There is also a trail system map available.
Like to bicycle? The Lunenburg Bike Barn www.bikelunenburg.com in Blue Rocks offers tours, bike rentals, and a full-service bike shop.
Interested in an architectural walking tour? The Town has put together an easy-to-follow walking map that points out the architectural features of the homes and buildings in the “old town” UNESCO section. Find out about the “Lunenburg Bump,” a unique feature to this area.
Interested in art? The art in and around Lunenburg deserves a paragraph of its own! There are over 20 art galleries www.lunenburgart.com that have formed an association and have developed a walking tour (so that you don’t miss any of them) of their galleries. There is just about any kind of art you might be interested in viewing and/or purchasing. This area is well known for folk art, and Inge Hatton at the Spotted Frog www.spottedfrog.ca has an outstanding collection of items crafted by local artists. Stuart Simpson collects and sells historically important Canadian art at the North Shore Art Gallery www.northshorecanadianart.com. And, not far from Lunenburg, in Kingsburg, is Judith Varney Burch’s Inuit art gallery—a not-to-be-missed gallery/museum. Judy travels all over the world for the Canadian Consulate, and she is a veritable wealth of information on Inuit art. www.arcticinuitart.com Lunenburg has artists that specialize in everything from marine/maritime art to landscapes and florals.
Interested in restaurants? Wow! They are not to be missed. Our lovely Fleur de Sel is French www.fleurdesel.net; Magnolia’s is internationally famous, especially for its fresh haddock fish cakes; the new Trattoria della Nonna www.trattoriadellanonna.ca is Italian; the Kilted Frenchman www.kiltedfrenchman.com has a mix of yummy steak, seafood, and pasta dishes; the Salt Shaker Deli www.saltshakerdeli.com is great for sandwiches, pasta, mussels, and soups; Historic Grounds Coffee House www.historicgrounds.com also has fabulous soup, salads, breakfast all day, and flavored coffees; the Old Black Forest serves authentic German food (love their schnitzel); and a new dessert café, Sweet Indulgence, has superb baked goods and sandwiches. Another new restaurant, Simple Moments, offers comfort food and entertainment. The Knot Pub is a local favorite, so the food has to be good! It has great mussel soup, hamburgers, and fish and chips. These are but a few of the many restaurants in and around Lunenburg, which is becoming a foodie’s delight!
Want to be on the water? Not to worry. There are plenty of ways to get there. The Lobsterman Tours will take you out and show you how lobster is caught. www.lobstermantours.com Star Charters will offer you either a sunset sail or a harbor excursion tour. www.novascotiasailing.com As mentioned earlier, Bluenose II offers a two-hour sail when she’s in port. The Whale Watching Cruise www.whalewatchingnovascotia.com takes visitors out through the “gut” and into Lunenburg Bay to seal island (which really has seals for photographic opportunities) and out to where whales may be found. All excursions go past Battery Point, the small lighthouse that is not accessible by land.
Churches? Yes, Lunenburg has them, and they’re picturesque also. St. John’s Anglican is the one that burned a few years ago and was completely rebuilt. The entire community and the Province helped rebuild it, and it is a National Historic Site of Canada. It’s still an active church, but it also offers concerts and guided tours.
Interested in golf? The Bluenose Golf Course on the other side of the bay from Lunenburg—about a five-minute drive—has nine holes and is open to the public. (There are also courses in Bridgewater and Chester).
Tennis? The tennis court is right across the street from our B&B, as is the playground for children.
Swimming? Lunenburg has two pools—one indoor and one outdoor. The indoor one is at emOcean Spa and Wellness Centre on Lincoln Street and is a bromine salt water pool. (We have a pass if you want to bring your suit). The outdoor pool is at the local high school.
SPA? emOcean Spa and Wellness Centre offers a comprehensive menu of wellness services for teens through seniors. These services include aesthetics, massage therapy, reflexology, reiki, nutrition services, a steam room, a sauna, plus new and exclusive Man Space treatments that are designed to address the needs of men’s skins. This centre also houses the largest (bromine) saltwater lap pool in the area. www.emoceanspa.com
Music/Theater? There are several venues for music and theater in Lunenburg. The Pearl Theater www.pearltheatre.com hosts plays and concerts year round. The Folk Harbour Festival, August 7 through 10, 2008, www.folkharbour.com is in its 23rd year of providing absolutely top quality performers during a jam-packed four-day series of events. The Lunenburg Opera House www.lunenburgoperahouse.com is being remodeled and will provide a perfect acoustical building for events in the future. The Boxwood Festival http://www.boxwood.org/canada.html, July 19 through 25, 2008, is a renowned international festival that provides opportunities for flute workshops and also opens its recitals to the public.
Now that you’ve seen Lunenburg, whew, what to do next? Well, there are several towns within easy driving distance, and we’d like to share them with you also. Lunenburg is the perfect hub from which to see the South Shore.
First and Second Peninsulas
These peninsulas just barely over the hill from Lunenburg offer wonderful opportunities for great blue herons, kingfishers, and deer—lots and lots and lots of deer, especially in the late afternoon! The deer are protected, so they continue to thrive. There are fabulous photographic opportunities in these areas, and are literally minutes from Lunenburg.
And what’s nearby, you ask? Blue Rocks is not to be missed. A five-minute drive from Lunenburg, this tiny community seems lost in time, and it is. There’s one gift shop on the way but nothing else really commercial. It was and is a fishing community, so there are fishing boats and large dark rocks, which is how it got its name, of course. It’s picturesque, especially at sunset, so take a camera.
Kejimkujik National Park is the only inland national park in the Maritimes and offers hiking, camping, canoeing, and kayaking. www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/kejimkujik
The Ovens Natural Park just off Rt. 333 has a walking trail, Zodiac boat rides to the natural caves that have been formed by the ocean waves, a restaurant, and a campground. And, you can also pan for gold here! www.ovenspark.com
Ten Beaches is a geographical area that offers ten spectacular beaches. www.tenbeaches.com
For all the beaches in Nova Scotia, go to http://parks.gov.ns.ca/beaches/default.asp.
Mahone Bay
Just about 12 minutes away on Rt. 3 east, this town is one easily-walkable street jam-packed with shops and restaurants, and you will also want to visit the Settler’s Museum http://www.settlersmuseum.ns.ca/. You’ll especially want to visit the Mahone Bay Quilt Shop, Comfort and Joy, The Teazer, Northern Sun, Birdsall Pottery and the two econo museums, museums that allow you to observe the artist at work: Amos Pewter www.amospewter.com and the Rug Hooking Gallery www.sprucetoprughookingstudio.com.
There are three churches in Mahone Bay that have become the symbol for the town because of their photographic appeal.
East Coast Outfitters www.eastcoastoutfitters.net in Mahone Bay is an eco-tourism operator that specializes in professionally guided sea kayaking tours and lessons.
Food is plentiful at the Gazebo, the Saltspray, the Biscuit Eater, the Innlet Café, The Cheescake Gallery, Eli’s Expresso, and Mader’s Wharf. On Route 3 between Lunenburg and Mahone Bay is The Old Black Forest Café.
Chester
Just 40 minutes away on Rt. 3 east, this adorable village has a great shopping area, and it’s a block from the water. A few of our favorite shops in town are Warp and Woof, the Emporium, Fiasco, and back out on Route 3, Lesley’s Pantry, Artifacts in Clay (an econo museum) www.artifactsns.com, and Linens for Life www.linensforlife.com. The Chester Play House has a solid reputation for offering great performers and lively shows. http://www.chesterplayhouse.ns.ca/html/contact.html
A good place to eat is the Seaside Shanty on Route 3 between Mahone Bay and Chester. There’s also a new dining establishment, Nicki’s Inn, in the village. The Chester Yacht Club hosts Race Week August 13 through 16, 2008, http://www.cyc.ns.ca/. Chester also has the Chester Connector Trail for walking or bicycling.
Ross Farm is at exit 9 on the 103. A working museum/farm, this interesting adventure is only 40 minutes from Lunenburg. Children especially love visiting this farmstead to see the animals.
Bridgewater
This bustling town 15 minutes away on Rt. 3 west is growing by leaps and bounds. There are two museums worth seeing: The DesBrisay Museum http://www.bridgewater.ca/desbrisay-museum.html and the Wile Carding Mill Museum http://museum.gov.ns.ca/wcm/ are extremely interesting small museums.
The newest dining experience, and one we believe is not to be missed, is Cranberry’s at The Fairview Inn http://www.thefairviewinn.ca/home.html. Colin, the manager, and Jerry and Pam, the owners, will greet you with a warm Nova Scotia welcome; and the food is absolutely delicious.
The LaHave River splits the town into two sections, and there’s an Old Bridge and a New Bridge over which the river may be crossed. The large grocery stores are there, and there is also a mall! King Street, the first street parallel to the water and across either bridge, is being revitalized; and it has new and old shops for wandering. We especially like the Kitchen Witch, an eclectic shop with wonderful gift ideas, and King Street Shoes, just next door.
Just on the outskirts of town at Exit 12 off the 103 are WalMart, Canadian Tire, Boston Pizza, and Swiss Chalet, so it’s beginning to feel like a shopping center there. Because it’s our “big box” town, chain restaurants are Dairy Queen, McDonald’s, Arby’s, and Wendy’s. Waves also serves good local fare.
Barely out of Bridgewater on Route 331 to Liverpool will be found the LaHave Bakery, housed in a historic chandlery, that specializes in yummy pastries, sandwiches, soups, etc.
Liverpool
Just 45 minutes west, Liverpool boasts that it was once the Port of the Privateers. Now it’s known for its wonderful museums—again, not your typical museums either! The Hank Snow Museum is located in the old train station just at the entrance to town. http://www.hanksnow.com/
The Sherman Hines Museum of Photography, which is full of the many photographs he has taken over the years, is located right in the downtown area.
http://www.shermanhinesphotographymuseum.com/
The Rossignol Cultural Centre is one of our favorites because it’s housed in an old schoolhouse, and its small rooms are devoted to different topics. One is devoted just to outhouses! You will laugh till you cry in that room, it’s so funny. The auditorium was painted by a visiting artist from the Orient, and the walls are beautifully done depicting the great outdoors. That room is full of large stuffed animals. Another room is an English dining room complete with its original wallpaper. Sherman Hines bought the entire room in England and had it stored and didn’t tell his wife for 12 years!! Hmmm, what a conversation that must have been. “Honey, I bought a dining room in England, and oh, by the way, I had it shipped over here and stored for the last 12 years.” I think they’re still together! http://www.rossignolculturalcentre.com/.
The Aster Theatre is a wonderful venue for all kinds of entertainment http://www.astortheatre.ns.ca/. The Mersey House also offers music year round.
Also, don’t miss the quaint Fort Point Lighthouse on the Mersey River.
Our favorite places to eat are Lane’s Privateer Inn www.lanesprivateerinn.com and the Woodpile. The Woodpile Café http://woodpilecarvings.com/ is owned by Liz and her husband, who is the cook. She is the wood carver, and her studio is the other half of the restaurant. She lends her walls to local artists to display their creative accomplishments, so the café is visually appealing and the food is decidedly delicious. Lane’s is a lovely place to enjoy a more upscale yet casual and affordable meal.
Annapolis Royal
Just 1 ¾ hours away on the Fundy shore is this picturesque town. Beautiful old Victorian mansions grace the main street, and many have been turned into B&Bs or Inns. Charade is our favorite shop, and the Historic Gardens www.historicgardens.com are a visual masterpiece. Look for the beautiful huge tapestry that depicts the history of the town at Fort Anne National Historic Site of Canada http://www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/ns/fortanne/index_e.asp, and be sure to visit the Port Royal National Historic Site http://www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/ns/portroyal/index_e.asp, which is an exact replica of the first fort Champlain built at Port Royal in 1604. The Melanson brothers are twins and each works in authentic costume at a different fort. Their family came with the first wave of French. (Sebelle’s family didn’t arrive in the area until 1654. Her mother’s family name is Morin dit Boucher, and it’s carved on the Grand Pre plaque). There are graveyard tours that are very interesting and fun, especially for children; and the visitor’s center worth a visit because it is located in the power plant, which is powered by the Fundy tides, one of the few in the world to be powered by this method.
Photographic/scenic Opportunities
Luckily, just about any road that is not a 100-series highway is a scenic road, especially those that seem to go toward the water. One of our favorite drives is going to Bridgewater “the long way” which takes us down toward Riverport on Route 332. There’s an osprey nest on Tanner Settlement Road, and we’ve found another osprey nest in a shopping center parking lot in Bridgewater! This road also has the turn-off to Kingsburg and Hirtle’s Beach.
The ferry that runs continuously to cross the LaHave River cuts off Bridgewater and brings you directly to Route 331 (from 332) that leads to Petite Reviere, Crescent Beach, and Risser’s Beach. Stop at the LaHave Bakery for coffee, pastry, soup, or a sandwich as soon as you get off the ferry before continuing on this road to Port Mouton and finally Liverpool. Be sure to visit the co-op craft gallery downstairs from the Bakery. Two other stops on this stretch of road are Mariner Crafts, found just past the (only) one-lane bridge in Petite Reviere, and the Petite Reviere Winery.
Another drive is to head east out of Lunenburg on Route 3 east toward Chester. Just past Chester, at East River, Rt. 329, turn right onto the Aspotogan Peninsula. This is a gorgeous drive that takes you to Blandford and then around the other side of the peninsula back to Route 3. This is a typical “by the ocean” road with twists and turns and coves and fishing villages. Taking a right on Route 3 and another right (eventually) onto Route 333 will bring you to Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, supposedly the most photographed lighthouse in the world. The lighthouse is situated on a huge outcropping of rocks in a town of only about 60 people! One visitor actually asked, “Who blows up the rocks in the summer?” Well, they do look like big pillows I guess! This lighthouse has a post office inside.